After some really hot days weather has turned and its finally “real autumn”. And on this cold and rainy Sunday morning I am very glad that I can sit in front of my oven and see how the Pumpkin Seed rolls rise in the heat. And I feel a bit sorry for all people who have to run through the pouring rain in order to get fresh rolls for breakfast.
My Pumpkin Seed Rolls follow once again my favourite formula: a slow overnight dough which is just cut into squares the next morning. A part of whole grain flour is also some I like to add to these kind of rolls, as it adds a deepness to the flavour. In this case, the flavour is especially delicious. The nutty flavour of Einkorn and pumpkin seeds works well together to give these rolls its specific aroma.
Slowly I find back into my everyday life after summer holidays. And summer seemed to be endless this year. I can’t remember when we had such a long period of hot and dry weather. But now, beginning of september, I feel that autumn is shyly knocking on our door. On my daily way to work I can see how mist is now filling the valleys around me. These are mornings which wake the memory of my favourite poem from Eduward Mörike.
A memory of the fading summer is this recipe for three grain rolls. Made with einkorn, rye and wheat flour the rolls have a delicious nutty flavour. A bit of potaote flakes helps to keep the crumb moist and tender. They are nourishing rolls packed with flavour and a good portion of whole grain flour. And so they were the perfect snack on our long summer trip to the Normandy.
I could call this bread a simple “leftover bread”. But this would be to simple as the bread is a really delicious one. But to be honest, it contains a lot of leftover flours. There is the package of einkorn flour I found behind my flour box. And the bag with the little bit of spelt flour and another bag with some leftover rye flour. And as these three did not yield enough flour for a bread, I added some wheat flour, too.
As I planned to bake the bread in the wood fired oven in our regional history museum, I had to plan accordingly. For an relaxed baking day, I prefer to knead the dough friday night and let it rise over night in the fridge. But this normally means that I have to prepare the preferment in the morning before I leave for work. But – with school years end so near – I knew I would be to tired that morning for mixing a preferment at 5:30 am. As workaround I decided to let the poolish ferment in the fridge as well. It needs about 24 hours then, but with a bit of planing ahead, it minimize the time I had to spent each day with preapring the bread.
For a family BBQ I had opted for bringing bread (anyone surprised by this?). And as I had some left over Einkorn flour from the Ein-Korn-Rolls I baked last week, my plan was made fast: Spelt Baguette with a good amount of whole Einkorn flour.
As Einkorn has the tendency to destablize the gluten network, I decided to use some enzyme active bean flour. The enzymes of this flour start oxidative processes in the dough, which leads to a better links between gluten proteins and thus to a stronger gluten network. If you need alternatives for bean flour please take a look at this post.
To watch the oven spring was mere “oven tv” for me. I sat happily before the oven and watched its oven spring. It was such a beautiful ovenspring, that it was very hard to to wait until the breads cooled before I sliced them. But then I was very happy: the crumb is for baguette with such a weak gluten network and one third whole grain flour surprisingly open. And the flavour is complex with its deep nutty undertones from the einkorn flour.
When I look over my roll recipe I published during the last few years, I see a clear tendence: overnight doughs. And my Ein-Korn-Rolls are no exception from this rule.
They are spelt rolls with 30% whole grain einkorn flour and about 16% seeds. This mixture give a deep nutty flavour and some bite. If you like, you can even roast the seeds, but I didn’t as I want to prevent the seed flavour to overpower the einkorn flavour.
The rest of the recipe follows a well working schema: some egg yolk and butter for a tender crumb and some psyllium hulls to increase the water binding capacity. And that brings a delicious roll. So delicious, that my dearest praised them at breakfast enthusaticaly. And that happens with my – from good bread quality spoiled – spouse rather seldomly 😀
As soon as the temperature drops I start longing for hearty whole grain breads. Blackbread would satisfy all my cravings but I have troubles with the amount of rye. It can cause me stomach ache and so I thought about another alternative. For the monthly bread baking day in the wood fired oven I came up with two nutty spelt breads. One was made with white flour (Recipe will follow), the other is made with cracked spelt and mixture of walnuts, hazelnuts and cranberries. As the cracked spelt is soaked overnight, it helps to keep the bread perfectly moist. For the right flavour I used molasses and some spelt sourdough which balanced each other perfectly. Kneading is done in intervals to protect the fragile gluten of spelt and einkorn. This works like a charm and at the end I had a soft but good to handle dough. Continue reading
I love simple cookies without “chi-chi”. I like them best when they are made with a few, high quality ingredients with a great flavour. Like these slightly sweet cookies with nutty hazelnut flavour which is enhanced by the aroma of Einkorn flour.
The recipe yields a huge amount of dough, but formed to a roll and wrapped in parchment paper it can be stored for some days in the fridge or some month in the freezer. The slicing and baking of the cookies is then done in some minutes.
I can always see what our Neighbour, the wine merchant, sells when I look out from our kitchen window. But I do not have to observe his offerings very closely, because when he got something he knows we would like, he calls when he see us: “Herr and Frau Neighbour, I have something for you!” And so one of first boxes with six flask of this years federweisser was our as soon as it was delivered to him.
When I came home at this day from work I saw this happily fermenting flasks sitting on the kitchen counter. And when I saw them bubbling, an idea popped up in my mind. Before my love could stop me, I had already mixed a poolish out of Federweisser and flour, planning to bake a bread with the yeast of Federweißer as sole rising agent.
At my last visit in our small wholefood shop I found a packets of einkorn wheat. Einkorn as well as Emmer and Khorasan are ancient wheat varieties. They have all a higher protein and mineral content. And like in Wheat the main components of the proteins in the grain are the gluten proteins gliadin and glutenin. But unlike to wheat Einkorn contains much more gliadin, the globular gluten protein that makes the dough extensible and sensible in the handling. Dough made from Einkorn flour can easily be overkneaded, so the dough has to be handled with care, similar to spelt dough. And so I decided to use only a smaller portion of einkorn flour. Together with some sourdough and a old bread soaker it makes a great, aromatic bread with distinct nutty flavour due to the einkorn. Very delicious!